.With all the skill of a master weaver at a loom,
Esther Ogble stands under a parasol in the
sprawling Wuse market in Nigeria’s capital and
spins synthetic fibre into women’s hair.
Nearby, three customers – one in a hijab – wait for
a turn to spend several hours and $40 to have their
hair done, a hefty sum in a country where many
live on less than $2 a day.
While still largely based in the informal economy,
the African haircare business has become a multi-
billion dollar industry that stretches to China and
India and has drawn global giants such as L’Oreal and Unilever.
Hairdressers such as Ogble are a fixture of markets and taxi ranks across Africa, reflecting both the continent’s rising incomes and demand from hair-conscious women.
“I need to braid my hair so that I will look
beautiful,” said 25-year-old Blessing James, wincing as Ogble combed and tugged at the back of her head before weaving in a plait that fell well past the shoulder.
While reliable Africa-wide figures are hard to come by, market research firm Euromonitor International estimates $1.1 billion of shampoos, relaxers and hair lotions were sold in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon alone last year.It sees the liquid haircare market growing by about 5 percent from 2013 to 2018 in Nigeria and Cameroon,with a slight decline for the more mature South African market.
This does not include sales from more than 40
other sub-Saharan countries, or the huge “dry hair”
market of weaves, extensions and wigs crafted
from everything from synthetic fibre to human or
yak hair.
Some estimates put Africa’s dry hair industry at as
much as $6 billion a year; Nigerian singer Muma
Gee recently boasted that she spends 500,000
naira ($3,100) on a single hair piece made of 11
sets of human hair.
The report also included the staggering numbers
for hair products in the United States: In one clue to
the potential for Africa, market research firm Mintel
put the size of the black haircare market in the
United States at $684 million in 2013, estimating
that it could be closer to $500 billion if weaves,
extensions and sales from independent beauty
stores or distributors are included. What is certain
is that Africa’s demand for hair products,
particularly those made from human hair, is only
growing.
Esther Ogble stands under a parasol in the
sprawling Wuse market in Nigeria’s capital and
spins synthetic fibre into women’s hair.
Nearby, three customers – one in a hijab – wait for
a turn to spend several hours and $40 to have their
hair done, a hefty sum in a country where many
live on less than $2 a day.
While still largely based in the informal economy,
the African haircare business has become a multi-
billion dollar industry that stretches to China and
India and has drawn global giants such as L’Oreal and Unilever.
Hairdressers such as Ogble are a fixture of markets and taxi ranks across Africa, reflecting both the continent’s rising incomes and demand from hair-conscious women.
“I need to braid my hair so that I will look
beautiful,” said 25-year-old Blessing James, wincing as Ogble combed and tugged at the back of her head before weaving in a plait that fell well past the shoulder.
While reliable Africa-wide figures are hard to come by, market research firm Euromonitor International estimates $1.1 billion of shampoos, relaxers and hair lotions were sold in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon alone last year.It sees the liquid haircare market growing by about 5 percent from 2013 to 2018 in Nigeria and Cameroon,with a slight decline for the more mature South African market.
This does not include sales from more than 40
other sub-Saharan countries, or the huge “dry hair”
market of weaves, extensions and wigs crafted
from everything from synthetic fibre to human or
yak hair.
Some estimates put Africa’s dry hair industry at as
much as $6 billion a year; Nigerian singer Muma
Gee recently boasted that she spends 500,000
naira ($3,100) on a single hair piece made of 11
sets of human hair.
The report also included the staggering numbers
for hair products in the United States: In one clue to
the potential for Africa, market research firm Mintel
put the size of the black haircare market in the
United States at $684 million in 2013, estimating
that it could be closer to $500 billion if weaves,
extensions and sales from independent beauty
stores or distributors are included. What is certain
is that Africa’s demand for hair products,
particularly those made from human hair, is only
growing.
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